I'm unsure about a print. Can I get a swatch?
Yes! Visit our SWATCHES page to view of all our prints and find ordering instructions. We will send you up to 3 swatches for FREE. Email us at email@example.com and let us know which swatch(es) you would like, being sure to include your name and mailing address. We will send them via USPS First Class Mail.
I noticed a printing variation in my bedding. Is that normal?
Yes. Color and print variations sometimes occur due to the nature of our printing. We believe this is part of the one-of-a-kind charm of Plover's textiles, and we hope you agree! However if the variation is too drastic for your liking and you'd like to replace the item, please contact us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
How are your sheets sized?
- Twin Fitted Sheets are 39" x 75" x 15"
- Twin Flat Sheets are 70" x 105"
- Queen Fitted Sheets are 60" x 80" x 15"
- Queen Flat Sheets are 96" x 105"
- King Fitted Sheets are 78" x 80" x 15"
- King Flat Sheets are 108" x 105"
Will your sheets fit deep mattresses?
- Our sheets will fit mattresses up to 15" deep.
Will Plover King Sheets fit my California King mattress?
California King mattresses are 72" W x 84" L (4" narrower and 4" longer than a King-size mattress). While our King Fitted sheets would not fit a Cal King mattress, you could use the King Flat Sheet for that purpose.
Will your duvets and quilts work on my California King bed?
- Yes. Our King Duvets and Quilts are 96" x 104", so they will fit on a Cal King bed, depending on how much overhang you want.
How are your duvets sized?
- Twin Duvets are 68" x 86"
- Queen Duvets are 92" x 96"
- King Duvets are 96" x 104"
How are your quilts sized?
- Twin Quilts are 68" x 86"
- Queen Quilts are 92" x 96"
- King Quilts are 96" x 104"
Where is your bedding made?
- Our bedding is designed in the Pacific Northwest, USA. Our manufacturing is done in India at our BSCI-audited factory. You can read more about our manufacturing processes here.
How should I care for my bedding?
All Plover bedding is designed to be machine-washable and dryer-friendly to make your life easy. Even our hand-sewn quilts can be washed in a machine. All Plover bedding is made from 100% GOTS-certified organic cotton sateen with a thread count of 300. Here are some general care tips to keep in mind.
- —Machine wash cool water to preserve colors, and use a mild liquid detergent
- —Wash with like colors and items
- —Tumble dry low
- —Iron on medium heat
- —Don't use fabric softeners, dryer sheets (wool dryer balls are recommended), harsh liquid or powdered detergents with your sateen bedding
- —Do not use products containing benzoyl peroxide, alpha hydroxy acids or chlorine bleach
Our dahlia tubers are top-quality 1st grade A single division tubers grown here in the Pacific Northwest. We guarantee that our tubers will grow, be true to name and disease-free. Our guarantee covers the current season's orders, and we are not responsible for customer negligence, weather conditions, rodent damage, winter storage, or performance of plants in subsequent seasons.
Each tuber will produce a full-size plant. All dahlias should emerge from the soil within 3 to 5 weeks after planting. If any dahlia fails to emerge after 5 weeks, please dig it up and contact us immediately for further instructions—no later than August 15th of the same growing season. Any other concerns regarding your growing dahlias must be reported by October 1st of the same growing season.
If you start your dahlias early or grow them in containers, please don't use any type of soil with pre-added fertilizers or compost. Dahlia tubers are often fatally damaged when these enriched products are used. We reserve the right to request the return of any failed dahlia(s) before replacements will be made. Replacements of the same variety will be sent the following spring at no charge.
What will I receive in the mail?
You'll receive a single division tuber stamped with its name. Each single tuber will grow into a full-size plant and bloom continually over the growing season. Store tubers in a dark, cool area until ready to plant. Read our Dahlia Planting Guide (in the FAQ) for detailed instructions on planting and care of your dahlias.
Dahlias as cut flowers?
Most dahlias make excellent cut flowers. For best results, cut them in the cool of the morning or at night. Cut and plunge right into water. Blooms will last longer if the stems are seared. Just place the cut stems in 2-3” of hot water (approx. 160-180° F) and allow to cool at least one hour.
Use a flower preservative if you like. (A homemade floral preservative needs to contain sugar, a bit of bleach, and an acid such as vinegar or lemon juice.)
Do not pick buds before they show color. Green dahlia buds will not open in a vase. It's best to pick dahlias when they are almost fully open but not past their prime.
Any other questions about your dahlia tuber/s?
Just email us at email@example.com.
When do I plant my dahlia tuber?
Dahlias should be planted from mid-April through May in most areas, or when the soil temperature is consistently about 60° F.
Where should I plant my dahlia tuber?
Dahlias want a sunny location. (Less sun means taller, leggier plants and less blooms.) An area that receives at least 8 hours of direct sunlight is best. If you live in a very hot climate, give them morning sunlight and afternoon shade.
Detailed planting instructions:
Dahlias want well-drained soil. Add in 50% sand, steer, horse or cow manure that's at least one year old if needed.
Bone meal is recommended at planting time. Dig your hole and put a small handful in, working the bone meal in well before planting your tuber.
Plant the tuber 4-6" deep and lay it horizontally in the hole. If growth has started, cut it back so only 1" of growth is connected to tuber (this will help the growth get through the soil). Plant tubers 18” to 24” apart so they are not crowded.
After covering up with soil, apply snail and slug bait to protect new sprouts.
DO NOT WATER BEFORE YOUR DAHLIA SPROUTS APPEAR ABOVE THE GROUND. The only exception to this is in very hot climates or where the ground is bone dry when you plant, in which case you can water sparingly to get them started.
Planting Do's & Don'ts:
- —Don't use compost, which can be high in nitrogen
- —Do use only low-nitrogen fertilizers (5-10-10, 10-20-20 0-20-20)
- —Do hand-weed only; Don't spray for weeds around your dahlias
- —Don't use bark dust or mulch to cover dahlias; they'll prevent the soil from warming up and tubers from sprouting properly
- —Do stake dahlia plants that reach 3' or more in height
- —Do water your dahlias deeply 2-3 times/week once established. Warmer climates may require more
- —Do deadhead for increased blooms
- —Do dig your dahlia tubers in November if your soil freezes 6" or deeper
Most seeds are suitable for simply planting outside after all danger of frost has passed, and we’ve had good luck with that here in the Pacific Northwest. (Be sure to check your region’s last frost date, easily done online by USDA zone or zip code.) Some varieties—such as love-in-a-mist and larkspur—actually prefer to be directly seeded outside. But if you’d like to get an early start on the growing season, or want to increase your rate of germination, starting seeds indoors is a great option. You do need some supplies in order to do this successfully, and here is what we’ve found to work best.
WHAT YOU NEED
- —Seed starting potting mix
- —Seed trays or pots
- —Bottom trays
- —Plant labels
- —Plastic domes
- —Heating mat
- —Shop lights
HOW TO SOW INDOORS
- —Add water to your potting soil and mix in. Let it sit for a few hours to absorb the moisture before planting.
- —Fill your seed trays or pots with the moistened potting mix, tapping the sides or bottom to settle the soil. Leave 1/2” of space at the top. Do not pack the soil into the pots!
- —Follow directions on individual seed packets to determine how deeply to plant the seeds, or whether they need to be surface sown. (The general rule is to plant seeds twice as deep as they are big.) We usually plant 2 seeds per cell or 4-6 seeds per cell for tiny seeds.
- —“Surface sown” seeds should not be covered, but lightly pressed into the soil and sprinkled with fine vermiculite.
- —Other seeds should be planted at the suggested depth on their packet and covered with soil and/or fine vermiculite.
- —Label all trays with seeds planted and date.
- —Fill your bottom trays with about 1” of water and set the planted trays or pots inside, then cover with a plastic dome to create a humid environment ideal for germination. (You can also use an empty compost or other plastic bag as a cover for your tray.)
- —Place your tray with its plastic cover on a heating mat set to 70°F.
- —Check morning and evening for signs of germination. Once the seeds have germinated, remove the plastic dome, turn the heating mat down to 55-65°F and put in a place of maximum light. Shop lights are perfect for this. Make sure yours are easily adjustable and keep the lights 2-4 inches above the sprouts as they grow. Keep the lights on for 16-18 hours a day.
- —Water seeds daily. We suggest bottom watering rather than watering overhead, which can disrupt the seedlings or cause damping off. Do this by placing your seed tray in a bottom tray of water and allowing it to soak. When you see the top darken slightly, remove the seed tray from the water and allow it to drain before returning to the heat mat and lights.
- —Fertilize seedling every 2 weeks with half-strength fertilizer. Do not overfeed, as this will produce weak, leggy plants.
- —Thin seedlings if necessary, so there are only 2-4 plants per cell.
- —If the seedlings are outgrowing their containers, transplant to slightly larger containers. (Potting up in a container that’s too big will result in root rot.) Be careful to pull by the leaves, not the stems, when transplanting or separating.
- —Don’t plant your seedlings outside without hardening them off first! Take your young plants outside for a couple of hours at a time over the course of several days, eventually leaving them out all day and overnight. Once they have acclimated to the outdoors, you can plant them in the ground. (Again, being sure all danger of frost is past.)
I have a question not answered here...
- No problem! Email us at firstname.lastname@example.org any time.